Water Damage & Stain Blocking for Communal Areas
A water mark on a stairwell ceiling is almost always painted over before the cause is fixed and the substrate is dry. Two coats of emulsion on a wet ceiling does nothing — the stain comes back through, the new paint flakes, the next contractor inherits the problem.
We do this properly: confirm it's dry, choose the right stain blocker for the type of staining, isolate cleanly, then repaint to match the existing scheme so the make-good is invisible.
Types of staining we deal with
- Water ingress from flat roofs, balconies and parapet walls
- Internal leaks from above (escape of water, washing machines, baths)
- Tannin bleed from timber knots in newly painted woodwork
- Historic nicotine staining in older converted blocks
- Smoke and soot residue after a small fire or oven incident
- Damp staining around windows and lintels
Process
- Moisture meter check — anything reading wet doesn't get painted
- Wash down soot and nicotine where present
- Apply correct primer / stain blocker — usually a shellac or oil-based isolator
- Two coats of matched finish over the blocked area
- Cut into the nearest natural break so the repair disappears
Why the primer matters
Water-based primers don't reliably stop a tannin or nicotine stain — solvent or shellac-based isolators do. Picking the wrong one is the most common reason a stain ghosts back through 6 weeks later.
Frequently asked
What if the leak isn't fully fixed yet?+
We don't paint over an active leak. If the cause is still being chased, we'll come back when it's resolved and the substrate has fully dried.
How long does drying take?+
Surface damp can dry in 2–3 weeks with airflow. A plaster ceiling that's been saturated can take 4–8 weeks. We meter it before we paint.
Can you match the existing wall colour?+
Yes — we colour-match on site if there's no spec on file. We'll also leave a touch-up tin with the agent for any future spotting.
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